kienyeji chicken

kuroiler chicks brooding

Kienyenji Chickens Brooding Guide –Natural Brooding And Artificial Brooding Techniques

Kienyenji chicken brooding is easier now, thanks to modern brooding systems. Unless you don’t mind at all, you don’t have to wait until one or more of your hens turn broody. There are ways to maintain a fertile egg at a controlled temperature and humidity for around 28 days. And as soon as your chicks hatch, you can nurture them for weeks inside an artificial brooding house. Note that a brooding house is not the usual chicken coop. It is a separate structure used only when caring for young chicks–even one-day old chicks. When interested in raising and selling your kienyenji chickens, such as Kuloiler chickens, your best brooding technique should be artificial. However, you can combine natural and artificial brooding methods.

Natural brooding technique

If you intend to start a small chicken project, the natural brooding method alone will help. That means waiting until one or more of your hens stops laying eggs in order to become a mother. A broody hen is easy to identify because she will squawk all day long. As well as this, a broody hen will make a huge sacrifice just to hatch and raise her own broods. Thus, she will sit in her nesting box all day long instead of foraging with the rest of the chickens.

Moreover, a broody hen will become too protective of her nest and eggs and pluck her breast feathers to give her eggs direct heat from the body. If you notice a stubborn broody hen, it’s time to start the natural brooding process. Usually, a broody chicken will sit on eggs for 21 days and depending on her body size, she can hatch up to 20 chicks. If you are familiar with the typical birds raised in our rural areas, then you know that despite the broody hens having lice and other parasites, they hatch and raise chicks until they can forage on their own.

If you wish to brood your chicks naturally, that’s fine because there will be no extra costs. The downside is that you can only give your hen enough fertilized eggs for her body size. If you give her more eggs than she can sit on, you will end up with a few stale eggs that won’t hatch. That means hatching fewer chicks than you expected.

Artificial brooding method

This is all about producing and raising new-born chicks without a broody hen. So you will require a man-made, temperature-controlled brooder to take the place of a live broody hen. An artificial brooding technique is better than a natural brooding method when you are doing kienyenji chicken rearing as a full-blown business. Here are the pros:

  • There is no downtime because of conditions beyond your control: weather changes, broody hens to sit on eggs and so on.
  • You can hatch numerous chicks at once without requiring extra human labour or lots of broody hens.
  • You can take full charge of the brooding process, ensuring that the brooder is clean and sterilized, well-ventilated and warm enough to keep the tiny broods alive.
  • You can control the brooder temperature levels
  • Feeding can be programmed and done systematically.

If you are going to use an artificial brooding approach, then it will be important to determine whether you will personally hatch your own eggs inside an incubator or will purchase young chicks. To avoid the challenges of buying an incubator and a brooder, it would be wiser to buy chicks from a reputable kienyenji chicken farmer and brood them afterwards. Simply make an order for 1-day old chicks, 1-week old chicks and/or 2-weeks old chicks, and so on, in whatever quantity you can afford. The following essentials are a must-have:

  1. A round housing structure
  2. A heat source or a brooder
  3. Constant supply of clean, fresh air
  4. Proper lighting
  5. Clean, dry and germ-free living space
  6. Safety from fire accidents or predators
  7. Clean and disinfected feeders and drinkers

If you are trying to improvise your own brooding system, you can roll a flexible material such as plywood to create a brooder house. Then use a charcoal jiko for heat production, if you live in a rural area without electricity; one jiko can generate enough heat to warm up to 300 chicks. To create a clean, dry and germ-free living area, you can buy wood shavings. In short, you can use your own creativity to create an artificial brooder at home. Alternatively, you can buy a readily constructed brooder: electric brooder, gas brooder, an automatic heater, a hover and so on.

Raising Kuroiler Chicken Breed – Top Six Things You should Note

If you are looking to start a chicken rearing business, try Kuroiler chicken farming. Developed by Vidod Kapur, an Indian businessman, Kroiler is a superior kienyenji chicken breed. It was first introduced to Ugandans, and then to Kenyans. A breed that can survive anywhere in Kenya, including arid areas, Kuroiler has been around since 2009. One of its main advantages is that it lays a lot of eggs (140 to 150) per year. What’s more, Kuroiler has the tastiest and softest meat, making it the best kienyenji bird for eggs and meat. For it to be super-productive, Kuroiler eats a lot. It is an insatiable chicken that loves scavenging in the fields.

Other special attributes

  • Appearance – Mostly, Kuroiler chickens have white and grey specks, and this makes them well-camouflaged. All the same, you should expect to come across other colorful Kuroilers.
  • Growth rate – Kuroiler kienyenji chicken farming has become so popular because the birds grow extremely fast. What’s more, they grow big and fat without necessarily eating a lot of store-bought feeds. Even if you let them loose to scavenge, Kuroilers will soon get heavier. Besides, you can give them your kitchen leftovers and edibles like yellow maize, omena, chicken mash, soya and worms. To ensure their growth rate stays sharp, deworm and vaccinate your birds on time. By the fourth or fifth month, a Kuroiler chicken attains a weight of three to four kilograms.
  • Kuroiler meat production – As aforementioned, Kuroilers produce delicious meat in high amounts. They fatten up quickly and the farmer doesn’t have to invest a lot of money to ensure it. Another good point to note about Kuroilers is that they are more resilient than some exotic breeds. Hence, they resist diseases better regardless of the environmental challenges. Their meat production remains high as long as you nurture and feed them properly. In just ten weeks, the chickens will be mature enough for slaughtering—weighs 3.5kgs at maturity. Cocks can be heavier than this, though. Compared to broilers that weigh 2 to 2.5 kilograms at maturity, Kuroiler chickens are perfect alternatives. Finally, meat is evenly distributed over the chicken’s body parts.
  • Eggs production – Kuroilers start laying eggs when they are five months old. As soon as their laying season starts, it goes on for two years. Surprisingly, they lay an extremely big egg with a vivid dark-yellow yolk. This yolk color is associated with good health, explaining why Kuroiler eggs fetch more money on the market.
  • Hatching – If you want to raise new broods, you will face one challenge with the Kuroiler hen. She doesn’t sit on her eggs so they can hatch. As a result, you will require an incubator or buy some readily hatched chicks. If incubated, about eighty percent of Kuroiler eggs will hatch. Alternatively, you could your kienyenji hens warm the eggs. But, keep in mind that most of the eggs might get stale. Thus, the incubation machine is the ultimate solution.
  • Housing – Kuroirer chickens can either be free range birds or semi-free range birds. If you have adequate land space, the kienyenji free range method is the most ideal. All the same, ensure that you build a fenced chicken run to keep your birds safe. If you already have a chicken house that meets the basic construction standards, you can keep your Kuroirer birds inside. Otherwise, you should get a special semi free range rearing system that is suitable for compact spaces.


If you want to raise Kuroiler chickens, first be completely sure that you can meet its growth conditions. As earlier noted, this breed is among the least expensive birds to keep. It can scratch the ground and get its own food. Thus, you should only supplement its efforts by providing extra food. Kuroiler is ever hungry, so you should be ready to feed it. After doing everything right, you will sell meat and eggs in huge quantities and make a lot of profits.